Botswana Safari,People and Culture
Flat,
massively under populated, and famous for spectacular springtime landscapes and
diverse wildlife, the southern African state of Botswana has an economic growth
rate that’s one of the highest in the continent. Most of the Kalahari Desert
falls within Botswana’s borders, and the country is home to the majority of the
ancient San (bushman) tribes. The capital city, Gaborone, lies along the South
African border and is a rapidly-growing modern center for commerce and
government.
Tourism
and diamond mining are Botswana’s main economic mainstays and the reason for
its robust economy. Outside the southeastern region and the capital, the
Kalahari and Okavango-Chobe regions are home to national parks and forest
reserves famed for their wildlife safaris and big game reserves. The thought of
getting up close and personal with Africa’s Big Five (lion, elephant,
buffalo, leopard and rhino) draws a huge number of visitors annually to the
pristine wilderness, mostly unchanged since the dawn of human time.
Gaborone,
a sprawling one-horse town 50 years ago, is now a clean, safe city with good
infrastructure and 400,000 inhabitants. Accommodation choices in the capital
and smaller cities range from a few upscale hotels offering business and
conference rooms through guesthouses, motel-style lodges, serviced apartments
and bed and breakfasts. Standards vary greatly, dependent on price. The
Batswana (people of Botswana) are a friendly crowd and welcome visitors, making
this one of the safest and least corrupt destinations in Africa.
Botswana’s
wildlife is its main attraction, and there are numerous game lodges scattered
across its savannahs. From inexpensive backpacker-style lodgings in the bush to
top-of-the-line luxury resorts offering private cottages and fine
dining, there’s something for all budget levels. Two of the favorite
destinations are the Okavango River Delta in the Kalahari Desert and the
glorious Northern Tuli Game Reserve. Visits to native villages are fascinating,
and the incredibly ancient rock art sites give a glimpse into ancient
beginnings.
Travel
in Botswana outside the capital is only by car, as all domestic train service
in the country ended in 2009. Long distance buses are regular and reasonably
comfortable, with most having air conditioning. Gaborone is well-linked with
the rest of the main cities, although local rural bus transport is sparse and
somewhat basic. The road system is mostly paved and well-kept, though drivers
here tend towards the erratic and the local livestock prefers the middle of the
road to the open land.
Highlights
- Trek
the Tsodilo Hills to uncover tangible proof of prehistoric settlement
- The
Makgadikgadi salt pans see huge zebra migrations in the flood season
- The Red
Desert of the Kalahari
- Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park for its diverse wildlife
- The
Okavango Delta, the largest inland delta on earth
Botswana
— Attractions
The
best way to see everything this unique destination has to offer depends on two
factors – time and money. For those with lots of the latter, private flights
are the best ways to cover the most ground and reveal stunning landscapes in
their full glory while following herds of wildlife as they roam. For those with
time to spare, game safaris and exploration of the prehistoric sights
can be drawn out as you may unearth different attractions each day. For less
extravagant holidays, combination tours by road are the best bet for a
well-rounded trip, plus several days of orientation in Gaborone and maybe a
cultural tour of the 20,000 years of San Bushmen’s history.
Gaborone
Botswana’s
capital has developed by leaps and bounds over the last 50 years and is the
thriving commercial heart of the country. The modern city center lies around
the now inactive rail station and includes the government area and shopping
malls set around town. Phakalane, the newly build suburb seven miles from
downtown includes a golf resort, perfect for fanatics who can’t miss a game,
even on holiday. Kgale Hill overlooks the city and gives magnificent views, but
visitors should watch out for the baboons.
Maun
The
tribal capital of the Batswana indigenous peoples, Maun is tourist heartland
for its location close to the Okavango Delta. It’s a unique mixture of native
huts and modern buildings set along the Thamalakane River and offers modern
hotels, shopping centers, car rental and many tour operators, all in a relaxed,
rural atmosphere. Local tribal farmers still bring their cattle to sell in its
market as they’ve done for a hundred years. The grazing grounds on the edge of
town are home to donkeys, cattle and passing wildlife.
Khama Rhino Sanctuary
Established
in 1992 to protect the swiftly declining rhino population of the region, this
trust-based wildlife project is a community enterprise which also offers
economic assistance to local tribe people. Eco-visitors can stay in comfortable
chalets or use the campsites and their facilities, sharing the small game
reserve with 34 endangered white rhinos and two representatives of the almost
extinct black rhino species. Nearby is the Serowe tribal village for a cultural
awakening.
San Villages
Opportunities
to spend time in non-touristy authentic tribal villages are rarer than in other
African destinations, and most visitors will only get to see
specially-organized dance and similar events. However, there are San (Bushman)
communities where traditional life continues, and which welcome strangers for
whom understanding and communicating is paramount. The Tsodilo Hills hold
several such opportunities, such as the Xai-Xai, and a visit here is sure to
become a long-lasting memory.
Botswana National Museum
Located
in Gaborone, this museum complex includes the National Art Gallery and a
botanical garden. Its multi-discipline displays showcase the traditional
artworks and crafts of the Batswana people, and there’s a section on the
museum’s conservation work in the prehistoric rock paintings of the Tsodilo
Hills.
Grand Palm Hotel Casino Resort
If
you’re feeling lucky or simply must stay in upscale surroundings, this Las
Vegas-inspired complex four miles from Gaborone’s center is the perfect
getaway. It’s a mini-city with restaurants, bars, a cinema, spa and a casino as
the centerpiece.
Drotsky’s Caves
If
life underground is as fascinating as above ground to you, a visit to these
spectacular caves in northwestern Botswana is a must. Water dripping for 1,000
million years over the dolomite marble has created magnificent stalagmites and
stalactites, incredible rock formations and frozen waterfalls. Visitors can
camp at this remote location to experience day and night cave life. Address: Northwestern
Botswana
Orapa Diamond Mine
Orapa
town is located 150 miles west of Francistown and holds the largest open-pit
diamond mine on earth. Security is obviously tight, but a visit gives a chance
to see where the sparkling gems that men (and women) murder over originate.
Around 18 million carats of precious rocks are extracted annually, and a
visitors’ permit is essential. Tours of the mine show massive trucks and the
blue-grey core of the diamond-bearing stratum.
Botswana
is a young nation, having achieved independence only just over six decades ago,
trailing behind a history of unsympathetic British colonization, conflicts
between tribal enclaves and disturbing migrations by ethnic groups and the
Boers. In spite of its history, the multi-ethic nation is joined together by
its loyal patriotism and is one of the most successful African nations at the
present time.
History
The
Batswana are descended mainly from Bantu-speaking tribes who migrated southward
into the region 1500 years ago, living in tribal enclaves as farmers and
herders. The migration somewhat displaced the indigenous hunter-gatherer
Bushman tribes of the San and Khoe, who’d lived in the Okavango-Makgadikgadi
area for 20,000 years. Several Iron Age cultures flourished from around 900 AD,
with the Toutswe, based in the eastern region of what is now Botswana, relying
on cattle held in kraals as their source of wealth.
In
contrast, the adjacent Mapungubwe tribes relied on gold as proof of status and
hierarchy. By the 13th century, Toutswe lands were exhausted from drought and
over-grazing, and the culture collapsed in spite of its success as a trading
nation. Until the arrival of Europeans in the 19th century, tribal way of life,
including the prestige granted to the owners of large herds of cattle, reigned
supreme across the region.
The
great 1830’s Boer trek from South Africa’s Cape Colony to the northeastern
interior of southern Africa caused the displaced Amandebele tribe, led by the
warrior Mzilikazi to attack their northern Batswana neighbors and force them to
pay tribute. The region soon descended into anarchy, with the Bakololo tribes
entering into conflict and the Boers themselves fighting for a share of the
land. The war continued until 1853, when a treaty was signed between the Boers
and the Batswana.
Around
the same time, missionaries from the London Missionary Society began
infiltrating the region in an attempt to spread Christianity throughout the
tribes. The famous explorer David Livingstone was one of the first to arrive
and founded a school in Kolobeng in 1845. Gaborone came into being around 1880,
at first as a tiny settlement alongside a fort built by Cecil Rhodes, founder
of the De Beers diamond-mining company. The region was given over to Rhodes’
British South Africa Company in 1895.
When
Botswana finally achieved independence from Britain in 1966, Gaborone became
the new country’s capital due to its experience as an administrative center, as
well as its proximity to the railroad and a reliable source of fresh water. A
building frenzy resulted and within a few years, the sleepy town had changed to
a small modern metropolis with a population of 5,000. Its rapid growth since
then has drawn millions from the rural heartlands, and the city’s population
now stands at almost 25 percent of Botswana’s total population of two million.
Culture
Every
one of the many ethnic cultures in Botswana has its own heritage of myths,
legends, rituals, values and traditional artistic norms. However, the
overlapping similarities between the different components create a homogenous
culture, giving a rich and colorful patchwork of the diverse whole. Marriage
rites and ceremonies differ considerably between the tribes, but all are
accepted in the many intermarriages taking place.
Setswana,
originally the tongue of the Tswana group, is the official language of
Botswana, with English the main business language. Various Tsawna tribes speak
dialects of Setswana, while others speak unrelated languages at home, but use
Setswana in their everyday life. Batswana are proud, strong people, with a
sense of unity linking them all to the democratic and peaceful development of
their country. The dominant religion is Christianity, with a number of sects
represented.
The
modern lifestyle has permeated the cities, but traditions are still very much
in evidence in the rural communities through clothing, housing, dance and
performances, music, food and rituals, all rooted in the Setswana language. The
entire country celebrates its diversity on the annual Botswana Culture Day, and
the President’s Day, also annual, involves local art and craft contests, with
the winners competing in a national finals.
Poetry
is considered one of the premier cultural arts, and is alive and well in 21st
century Botswana. Recently, the ancient oral tradition of myths and the unique
praise poetry were transcribed and recorded, ensuring the craft is not lost
over the generations. One of the country’s most iconic symbols is the baobab
tree, under which local matters were discussed and rulings handed down by
village elders for centuries. The massive trees are still the center of rural
life for many Batswana. The hunter-gatherer Bushman communities stand apart,
with their own ancient culture and way of life, although since the 1990’s, many
tribes have been moved from their ancestral lands and forced into farming by
the government.
Consultation
is important here, within the family, the local environment and at governmental
level from the President downwards, with all those involved having a say. In
rural areas, cattle are still a sign of wealth, and traditional medicine is
practiced along with its modern equivalent. A smile and handshake are essential
greetings, with the left hand placed under the right elbow. The same gesture
shows appreciation for a gift or assistance. Politeness in everyday life is
important as Botswana is a peaceful place.
Botswana Holidays and Festivals
Botswana’s
traditional village festivals were held in the same manner for hundreds of
years until the country achieved independence. During the following decades,
many of the smaller celebrations were combined to make more modern events, and
now draw thousands of tourists to the fascinating indigenous displays of
African music and dance. Two of the favorite offerings are Gaborone’s Maitisong
Festival and the Maun Festival.
New Year’s Day
As
in the rest of the world, the arrival of each new year is a Botswana holiday
celebrated with street parties, dances, traditional music, and inordinate
amounts of food and drink. New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day are great times to
celebrate another year of life.
World Wetlands Day
This
February event is popular across the country for its focus on environmental,
conservation and tree-planting, as well as a Wetlands March. There’s great
concern in Botswana over the protection of its wildlife and unique environment.
Maitisong Festival
Gaborone’s
major festival takes place in March, and is a performing arts cornucopia of
traditional music, dance and theater held all over the city and its suburbs.
The event lasts for nine full days and sees the entire population take to the
streets in carnival mode.
Maun Festival
Traditional
poetry, music and dance are the hallmarks of the Maun Festival, held over a
two-day period in April. The visual arts also have their place in this
celebration, which is held for the benefit of local schools, as well as
honoring northwestern Botswana’s rich tribal culture.
Tjilenje Cultural Festival
This
festival takes place in May and is held in Botswana’s northeastern regional
town of Nlapkhwane. Totally traditional, the event involves ancient games,
dances and stalls crammed with local food and drink.
Toyota 1000 Desert Race
A
must-see for fans of off-road motor sport races, this thrilling annual June
event involves quads, bikes and cars, with 25 spectator areas set around the
country.
President’s Day
Botswana’s
President’s Day in July is a four-day national holiday across the country and
sees inhabitants returning to their home villages for celebrations including
speeches, traditional dance and singing.
Kuru Dance Festival
This
unique event takes place every August on the only Bushman-owned game farm in
Botswana. The Dqae Game Farm lies in the Kalahari Desert close to D’Kar and
comes alive with traditional dance and music for three days.
Botswana Day
The
Batswana are proud of the advances their country has made since independence,
happily hitting the streets in celebration every year on September 30.
Traditional events, street parties and parades are the order of this important
day.
Festive Season
Most
Batswana follow the Christian religion, and Christmas is a great time to visit
as it’s a major holiday here. Seasonal events take place across the region and
local choirs sing their hearts out in iconic African style at carol concerts.
Western-style restaurants and pubs offer Christmas dinners and everyone gets
together to celebrate.